Ducks
display flocking behavior in a manner
similar to sheep, and can be used for
training herding dogs in the maneuvers
to be used with sheep and other larger
stock. Ducks sometimes are used to test
very young puppies for herding instinct.
A big advantage of ducks is that several
can be kept where it would be impossible
to keep sheep. Ducks are hardy, fairly
easy to keep, and easy to transport.
Keeping
Ducks
Adult
ducks can be obtained from ads at feed
stores, through newspaper ads, from
some hatcheries, and other sources.
Ducklings can be obtained from hatcheries,
from feed stores or pet stores, or even
ordered through the mail. Baby ducklings
will need a draft-proof box with a heat
lamp or brooder for several weeks. They
grow quickly, so will be able to be
acclimated to the outdoors after a few
weeks, although they still will need
shelter and warmth at night or in bad
weather. Downy ducklings should be kept
from deep water unless supervised, as
they can become waterlogged and drown
-- very young ducklings have even drowned
in dewy grass. This is particularly
the case with ducklings that aren't
being raised by their mother, because
they will lack the protective oils that
ducklings being raised by their mother
will acquire from her feathers (ducks
preen themselves constantly to keep
the oils spread over their feathers,
which helps provide them with buoyancy).
Ducklings' drinking water should either
prevent their entry, or have a means
of getting out. If adult ducks are already
present, the ducklings should be kept
separate from them, as adults will not
accept strange ducklings and may attack
them. Young ducks will approach adult
size and appearance by three or four
months, although it may take a little
longer for the full adult coloration
of the drake to appear. They should
be fully mature before being worked
to any extent, and the amount of time
they are worked should be increased
slowly.
Recommended
breeds for herding are the lighter breeds
developed for egg-laying: Indian Runners
in particular, with their upright stance
and fast gait, and Khaki Campbells.
Call ducks are also good, although they
tend to be slower, and some Mallards
can be acceptable, as well as crosses
of all of these. These breeds are more
active, flock better, move more smoothly,
and, except for the Call females, are
generally quieter than the heavier meat
breeds such as the Pekin (the common
white duck) and the Mallard-colored
Rouen. Muscovy ducks can be aggressive
and the larger, heavier individuals
may not have a great deal of stamina.
I have used Runners, Campbells, crosses
of these, and Calls.
Five
to seven ducks may be adequate for a
small facility where only one or two
dogs are being worked, but use by more
dogs will require more ducks, and more
ducks will of course require larger
facilities. When obtaining adult ducks
for herding, they should come from the
same flock. Ducks from different flocks
and/or breeds won't readily associate
with one another, but will split off
and give an inexperienced dog discouraging
difficulties. It usually is better to
start out with a few more ducks than
actually needed, then select for the
desired number, because even in the
more suitable breeds there will be individuals
that have less stamina, develop more
aggression, are noisier, or have some
other quirk that makes them less suitable
than their flockmates.
Drakes
are quieter than hens and usually have
more stamina because they aren't devoting
energy to producing eggs. Females carrying
eggs are additionally vulnerable because
eggs may break inside them and they
may die as a result. Drakes confined
in small areas, however, sometimes may
fight during mating season even if no
hens are present and may injure and
even kill one another. In my experience
this appeared to be more of a problem
with Campbells than with Runners, and
in any case the problem is diminished
when there is sufficient room. In any
group that includes both hens and drakes,
hens should outnumber the drakes at
least three or four to one. When there
are too many drakes, the drakes will
fight with one another and will rough
up the hens. Part of the mating ritual
for ducks involves the drake grabbing
the hen by the neck, leaving hens with
feathers pulled out and sores on their
necks. Some drakes are rougher with
the hens that others, so in a mixed
group an excessively aggressive drake
should be removed.
Runners
and Campbells are noted layers. Duck
eggs can be used like chicken eggs and
are especially well thought of for baking.
They usually aren't fried, however,
because when fried they tend to have
a stronger flavor and a somewhat rubbery
texture compared to fried chicken eggs.
I often hard-boiled the eggs and gave
them to the dogs for a treat (whole
raw eggs shouldn't be given because
a substance in raw whites binds up Vitamin
B). A hen may be left to set her eggs
and raise ducklings. Several ducks may
lay eggs in one nest, but it is best
to confine any setting hen or hens separately.
When several hens are kept in a small
area, they may try to push eggs from
one nest to another, and if after the
disturbances the eggs do hatch, the
hens may fight over the ducklings, or
one mother duck may attack the ducklings
that do not belong to her. Ducks are
notoriously poor mothers. They may set
20 eggs, hatch only half, with only
half of the hatched ducklings eventually
surviving. Because of this, ducks eggs
often are hatched in an incubator, or
put under a setting chicken -- leading
to such sights as a frantic mother chicken
running along the bank of a pond as "her" babies
instinctively take to the water.
Many
Runner and Runner-mix ducks show little
inclination or ability for flying, managing
a distance of maybe four or five feet,
a couple of feet off the ground, on
a downhill slope. Many ducks, however,
especially those with Mallard admixture,
can achieve varying degrees of flight,
and for those, wings can be clipped
by trimming back the long outer flight
feathers of one wing by two to three
inches. Regular scissors can be used,
with care being taken to cut only the
feathers, not too close to where the
feather is set into the tip of the last
wing joint.
Ducks
are fairly easy to handle. They may
occasionally attempt to nip with their
beaks, flail with their wings, or scratch
with their feet, but such efforts usually
are weak and easily countered (an exception
is the Muscovy). Ducks are best held
by putting both hands around the body,
enclosing the wings. They can also be
held by grasping the upper wings in
one hand, close to the body and over
the back, or by holding the duck against
your side with one arm around body and
wings. It is best to avoid picking them
up by the neck, but if a quick grab
is required, the grasp should be well
down the neck, at the shoulders, not
close up to the head.
Ducks
can be fed a mixture of chicken scratch
and laying feed for hens available from
feed stores. Chicken scratch alone isn't
nutritious enough and laying feed alone
can be too rich, but in combination
these feeds work well. When ducks have
plenty of opportunity for forage and
aren't being worked too much, chicken
scratch alone may be sufficient, but
if more closely confined or being worked,
then laying feed should be added. Laying
crumble is a more convenient and practical
form of the food than laying mash. They
also do well on an inexpensive brand
of small-kibble dog food. Ducks enjoy
vegetable scraps. They are very good
at clearing an area of snails, slugs
and insects. Baby ducklings should not
be given "chick starter," however,
as it is not formulated for them; instead,
they should receive a food made for
ducklings or for game birds.
Ducks
can be allowed free range in large areas,
being enclosed in a covered pen at night
for their safety if there are predators.
A pen of about 4 x 12 ft. is acceptable
for five to seven ducks which are allowed
regular access to a larger area. In
larger areas a three-foot fence usually
is adequate for keeping ducks confined,
but four feet is better for a smaller
area, and of course a higher, stronger
fence may be needed to keep other animals
out. The pen should be located away
from the owner's house or any neighbor's
house, because with close confinement
the ducks' pen can become aromatic or
attract flies. General cleanliness and
proper care will keep this at a minimum.
While ducks are fairly hardy, nevertheless
there should be some kind of covered
shelter available to them at all times.
For
more information on keeping ducks, see
Raising the Home Duck Flock by David
Holderread, Storey Communications, Inc.,
Schoolhouse Rd., RD#1, Pownal, VT 05261.
Working
Ducks
Ducks
used for training must be fit, free-moving
and cooperative. A drawback of using
ducks is that they are slower than sheep
and tend to cause the dog to work closer
to the stock than is ideal. However,
this can be used as an opportunity to
insist that the dog work slower and
further off the stock, teaching the
dog that every step taken is critical.
Ducks do not have a great deal of stamina
and must be treated with care because
of their small size and weak build.
Of
poultry types, ducks are the most suitable
for herding. Chickens do not flock well
and geese, although they flock and can
be worked, tend to be aggressive. New
ducks may panic the first few times
they are worked with a dog, but if properly
introduced to being worked will soon
settle. It is important to work them
at first with an experienced dog, who
in essence will teach them what the
proper responses are to the movements
of the dog. Their stamina should be
built up gradually by working them for
only short periods at first, then slowly
increasing the amount of time. Consideration
should be used in introducing the ducks
to dogs and in handling them in their
day-to-day work.
Experienced
ducks will be less inclined to panic,
flapping wildly and quacking, and will
respond more appropriately even when
worked by a less experienced dog. It
is also important to try to set up situations
in as positive a way as possible, even
if it takes a little longer; for instance,
if you are working with a less experienced
dog and the ducks run into a corner
while you are attempting to set them
up for the dog to go around them, you
should have the dog while while you
take the ducks out of the corner again
and reset them; an inexperienced dog
shouldn't be sent into the corner after
them. This extra time is well worth
it in the long run, as it will help
keep the ducks from becoming sour as
would soon be the case if they were
constantly being pressured inappropriately
and pushed into or along fences. During
the course of its, training, the dog
will learn how to properly bring ducks
out of corners.
With
suitable experience, the ducks soon
will begin to move more or less in the
direction of the handler with the dog
walking up behind them, changing direction
according to the dog's position as directed
by the handler. Ducks do not tend to
so readily come to people as is the
case with experienced school sheep,
something which contributes to their
suitability for fine-tuning a dog's
work. Experienced ducks being worked
by experienced dogs may eventually show
some tendency to come to the handler's
feet - in which case you have to watch
your step! - but for the most part,
the handler will need to expect that
the ducks will avoid coming toward the
handler. There will be cross-driving
and driving, and fetches will be slightly
indirect. The handler may need to stand
back a little from the entrance to an
obstacle so as not to cause the ducks
to turn back or to go off to the other
side in the case of a free-standing
obstacle.
After
the ducks become accustomed to moving
around a course set-up, they may start
to head through the gates or into a
pen practically on their own! Be sure
to change the course layout periodically
to avoid this, or alter the obstacles
(for instance, a towel or balloon can
be tied to a familiar panel to make
it look different). Ducks, like other
stock, can become too habituated to
the herding routine or become sour and
obstreperous, so may have to be replaced
from time to time. Ducks sometimes are
used for introducing puppies to stock,
but this must be done with careful supervision
because ducks can pinch with their beaks
or frighten a young puppy with an aggressive
display or by loud quacking and flapping,
or a large, bold puppy may attempt to
grab or bowl over a duck. One way of
providing the first introduction is
to have the ducks in a small round pen
(such as an exercise pen) with the puppies
able to circle the pen on the outside.
To stimulate a puppy's interest, you
might catch one duck and take it a short
distance from the pen, allowing it to
run back to the pen or run around the
pen on the outside with the other ducks
still inside, always being ready to
intervene if the puppy attempts to grab
or jump on the duck or the duck attempts
to run at or peck at the puppy. Older
puppies can be directly introduced to
docile ducks, under close supervision,
in a larger area.
During
the mating season, drakes in particular
may be more inclined to run at dogs
with necks outstretched, attempting
to pinch, especially when near the nesting
area. One time during mating season
I sent my Collie into the duck house
to bring out the ducks, and the drake
jumped at her and hung onto her ruff
-- she stood there looking nonplussed,
while the drake was sure he was doing
major damage. My Collie's size and experience
kept her from becoming upset at this
behavior, but less experienced dogs
or younger or smaller dogs could be
intimidated in such circumstances or
overreact and attack a duck.
Pups
or grown dogs should never be left with
ducks to chase and pull feathers at
will. Ducks are small, practically defenseless,
and aren't really designed for a lot
of walking or running. They must be
protected from unruliness on the part
of the dog such as trampling, bowling
them over and nipping. Flapping, quacking
ducks can be overstimulating to an inexperienced
dog. Some dogs may be too strong for
ducks and would best be started on sheep.
After some training, such dogs may then
work ducks safely. In all cases, first
exposures should take place under the
supervision of a knowledgeable person
so that the best approach to training
can be determined. The book The Farmer's
Dog by John Holmes shows some approaches
for beginning a dog's work with ducks,
including work with the ducks inside
a small pen (which can be set up by
using an exercise pen or a couple of
exercise pens joined together) while
the dog moves around the outside of
the pen.
As
a general rule, because of their size
and because they will not come to the
handler in the same way experienced
sheep will, ducks are not as suitable
for starting a dog as appropriate sheep
would be, especially for larger or more
aggressive dogs. They are excellent,
however, for intermediate-level work,
fine-tuning and driving, because they
respond to small movements on the part
of the dog and readily move away from
the handler in any direction. I prefer
to work ducks in as large an area as
practical so the dog has plenty of room
to get around them. Less experienced
handlers, dogs and ducks may need to
start with some work in smaller enclosures,
with minimum sizes of approximately
60 ft. across for circular enclosures
or 60 x 90 for rectangular areas. Corners
of enclosures should always be rounded.
When working ducks in enclosed areas
of any size, it is important to condition
the ducks to stay out in the open, away
from the fences. Often ducks will attempt
to run to the fence, seeking shelter,
whereupon the dog may become frustrated
and trample or attempt to catch them.
I conditioned my ducks by: 1) working
them first with an experienced dog who
could get around them and hold them
out in the open whenever they attempted
to go to a fence; 2) frequently, especially
at first, placing the ducks where I
wanted them by walking along the fence
myself, tapping a pole and shooing them
back out into the open whenever they
attempted to go to the fence; and 3),
an important factor, always keeping
water and sometimes food in a container
out in the center of any area where
they were to be worked, and frequently
letting them rest there. Whenever they
went toward a fence, the experienced
dog or I would bring or shoo them away
from the fence, toward their water pan
set out in the open, where they were
allowed to settle. Another factor in
working ducks is being aware of the
area toward which they want to go, their "draw" direction.
There shouldn't be any pens of other
ducks near the working area, as the
ducks being worked will repeatedly attempt
to join the other ducks. The principal
problems of working ducks at trials
are fence-hugging behaviors and strong
draws to the holding pens, and sometimes
attempts to cling near an obstacle in
an effort to hide. To handle these situations,
a dog needs to keep a suitable distance,
avoid overrunning the ducks, cover well
from side to side with square flanks,
and be experienced in properly and quietly
moving in tight against a fence to move
the ducks away from it.
When
I first obtained ducks, I didn't have
enough room to work at home, so I took
my ducks to school fields, parks or
other open areas to work. Standard pet
carriers such as airline kennels work
well for transporting ducks. Find areas
that are quiet, relatively free of people
and, in particular, free of loose dogs.
The problems associated with loose dogs
are obvious, and while many people are
fascinated by the sight of a dog herding
ducks, others may become concerned at
what can appear to them to be a dog
chasing ducks with intent to harm. Also
avoid areas with brush. The natural
tendency of ducks is to seek safety
in dense cover, and it can be difficult
to find them and get them out should
they manage to get into cover. They
will flatten themselves on the ground
and hold perfectly still, even if prodded.
Long grass and rough surfaces are difficult
for them to walk on and tire them out
quickly.
For
setting up various courses, I nailed
together little four-rail "gates" or
panels from strips of wood lath, about
two feet high and three feet long, secured
by small round metal posts pushed --
or hammered, depending on the harness
of the ground! -- into the ground (later
I put "feet" on the panels).
For pens, standard exercise pens are
handy. I have also set up larger fenced
areas with a roll or two of 2-ft.-high
chicken wire and more of the small metal
posts. In some cases, to help make the
wire more visible to people and dogs,
I would run a white string along the
top. My set of 20 posts cost around
$25.00, obtained at a hardware store.
Plastic insulators for electric fences
(about $3.00 a package) were useful
for securing the wire to the posts.
These items can also be obtained through
farm catalogs. At the practice field,
water should always be available for
the ducks (and for dogs and people,
too, of course). I would take along
a small dishpan for the ducks' water,
which not only provided refreshment
for the ducks, but could be used to
help keep them in position at a distance
when practicing outruns. The ducks would
take turns dipping in their dishpan
when there was a lull in the activities.
Ducks
will need plenty of rest periods when
working. The hotter the weather, the
longer and more frequent the rest periods
will need to be. The nature of the dog
will also play a part in how long a
session should continue. Signs of stress
in ducks are panting with open beaks,
floundering along with chest low or
touching the ground and wings flapping,
or sitting down and refusing to move
in otherwise cooperative ducks. In very
hot weather, the ducks may not work
at all, or work only in the shade. They
deserve full consideration -- after
all, they didn't volunteer!
Ducks
may be a practical solution for someone
who is interested in herding training
but is not in a position to keep sheep.
Work done on ducks will adapt to work
with sheep. And aside from that, ducks
can be appealing, interesting animals
to have around.
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Linda Rorem
e-mail Pacifica19@aol.com